Re: (ET) ET new technology and abandening the ICE

[Rod Hower <rodhower ameritech net>]

Chris,
The GE control is over 30 years old.
Well designed but not the best upgrade for
this machine.  I think the Alltrax control offers
simplicity and better operation for people that
can't deal with failing relays and SCR's that
are over 30 years old. I'll admitt that my mower
solution is not for everybody, in fact it's probably
only for me since I have access to free parts to
perform this operation.  However, the Alltrax control
offers many users a simple and effective replacement
for
an antiquated control.
Rod.
--- Chris Zach <czach computer org> wrote:
>  > You need an Alltrax control!
> 
> I need an Alltrax controller like I need a hole in
> my head.
> 
> Seriously: The Elec-Trak controller is the model of
> simplicity and 
> logic. I have seven speeds times four gears; that's
> enough to get me the 
> speed control I need. I have regen and braking for
> excellent overall 
> speed control. And I have a little circuit that
> measures the armature 
> current and shuts down the field weakening circuit
> automagically when I 
> overload the motor.
> 
> And cruise control with a little light. What more
> can I need?
> 
> This is not a car, where you want a wide amount of
> speed settings. I 
> have 28 possibilties between 0 and 7 miles per hour.
> That's not bad. And 
> besides, I usually use this thing for constant speed
> applications like 
> mowing the lawn or blowing snow. Having a controller
> that never gives me 
> the same speed twice would be annoying.
> 
> There might be a point in the fact the the E15's
> controller is a lot 
> more parsnickety. This appears to be the case; it's
> logic board tries to 
> do a lot of things that the inherent nature of
> having contactors does 
> for the E-20 (there are no timing circuits on the
> E20 for example; the 
> contactors provide the time for you). And the E20
> reverses the motor the 
> *right* way: By reversing the armature with
> contactors as opposed to the 
> field with relay points. The E15 was a cheaper
> design, but one can fix 
> that too with simple discrete components.
> 
> So for $5.00 for four diodes from Radio Shack my
> controller is fixed. 
> And will probably last for another 30 years. At
> which time I'll simply 
> replace the components again instead of scratching
> my head looking at a 
> solid-state thingie. I'm sure Radio space shack will
> sell diodes in 2034.
> 
> Probably the only remaining weak link is the relays.
> And to be honest 
> when they die I could just build a 36 volt to 24
> volt power controller 
> for $5.00 and replace the relays with modern 24 volt
> ones. Sealed too. 
> $25.00 and that's all done for the next 30 years.
> 
> There's a place for everything. A contactor
> controller doesn't really 
> belong on a car (like the Renault electrics) and a
> digital control 
> doesn't really belong on a lawn tractor.
> 
> As for using the tractor: My E20 is my main mowing
> and plowing machine. 
> The simpler the better. BLDC mower motors are nice,
> but it adds 
> complexity when the omputer blows out.
> 
> Chris Zach
> 
> 
> 
> Rod Hower wrote:
> 
> > I plan on ordering one tomorrow.
> > I know there are diehards on the list that prefer
> > to keep original equipment, but I will upgrade
> mine
> > to the latest technology.  Like others on the list
> > I plan on using this tractor as a practical
> machine
> > and don't care much about keeping it original.
> > I would have converted an ICE machine to electric,
> > but it's much easier to get an Elec Trak going,
> even
> > if it is 30+ years old.  My mower deck will use 3
> BLDC
> > motors from work with lots of 'engineering' to
> connect
> > the mower blade.  I would have used the original
> PMDC
> > mower motors, but the blade and mounting hardware
> were
> > in very bad shape and required me to dismember the
> > parts. 
> > I'll post pictures when the job is finished.
> > Lots of work, but worth the effort since I don't
> have
> > to listen to the gas engine.
> > Rod
> > --- Chris Zach <czach computer org> wrote:
> > 
> >>Ok, the breadboard is fixed. Basically what I did
> >>was replace all four 
> >>of the diodes with good old fashioned 3amp diodes
> >>from Radio Shack. The 
> >>larger diodes have a forward voltage drop of .5
> >>volts as opposed to 1.0 
> >>volts for the smaller ones. So I took a drill,
> >>enlarged the holes in the 
> >>PCB slightly, and soldered in the new diodes.
> >>
> >>Put it back in; works like a champ. As a bonus,
> >>speeds 6 and 7 now come 
> >>online. Now if I could just get a voltmeter that
> >>*works* and a bulb for 
> >>the cruise control switch I would be 100% set for
> >>the summer.
> >>
> >>Meantime I will put in an order for 22 ohm
> resistors
> >>and the other 
> >>oddball types and replace everything in the fall.
> >>
> >>Chris
> >>
> >>
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> >>
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