(ET) Monty's ET "Oz Bucket"

["Monty McGraw" <mmcgraw74 hotmail com>]

I wanted to share pictures with the ET list of my "Oz Bucket" based on 
Shaun
N Clamp's email posting back in May 2002 of his design.

http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mmcgraw74/album?.tok=phOsDlABSzNfPtbo&.dir=/fca5&.src=ph

This was the largest welding project I've tackled and I've had no formal
training in welding.

The bucket is welded using only 1/8th inch thick steel plate and 1/8" inch
1.5"x1.5" angle steel.

All I had to go on was the three pictures (which I posted on my photo 
album)
and the outside dimensions of the bucket as Shaun's email outlined.

I did not draw up plans for this bucket, just got out my measuring tape, 
cut
and welded :)

I did find that the 7" cutoff blades sold in the hardware stores for
circular saws are a fine way to cut the 1/8" steel.  I also discovered that
a 4' x 8' plate of 1/8" steel is very heavy - I had the steel supply place
cut that sheet into two 4' x 4' pieces, which I had them put on the roof
rack on my Honda station wagon - it did lower the wagon on the springs :)  
I
also picked up two 8' pieces of 1.5"x1.5" angle iron and the two steel
hinges at the steel supply store - quite a bit cheaper than Lowes or Home
Depot for the angle iron - and neither of those two stores carried the 
steel
plate.

First item was cutting the plates for the bucket and welding them.  I would
clamp two pieces together on my workbench and use my little Lincoln MIG
welder from Home Depot (no gas - just arc).  I would clamp the pieces on 
the
edge - and fill in the space with the 'bead'.  I had my best success 
welding
vertically, letting gravity do part of the work.

The frame was next to construct.  I decided to do it the hard way and weld
two angles together to make two 'tubes' for the main frame.  If I did it
again, I might just use steel tube.  The ET bracket that is used to mount
the snowblower and dozer blade has a round bar at least an inch diameter -
so welding the flat steel pieces to the top and bottom of the "tubes" 
easily
clears the round bar.  Basically you drill holes through those brackets and
use a standard pin and clevis on each side to fasten the bucket to the
tractor mount.

I put angle iron on both ends to strengthen the assembly.  But you notice
that the bucket needs to lay flat on the ground - and the mounting frame
will be at a slight angle.  I welded an additional angle iron on the front
of the frame - in order to try to get a better angle for welding the
brackets on the bucket - this was not necessary.

The upside down "U" next to the bucket gives you the spot to put a release
latch.  My design here is a little different than Shaun's photo - I welded 
a
short piece of angle iron to the bucket, and then used the cutoff blade to
notch this piece and angle the leading edge.  "Bucket Details 5" shows a
small scrap piece welded to the "U" frame as a stop for the latch plate -
hanging from the spring in that photo.  This piece is mounted to "stop" the
latch so that when the bucket is lowered, the catch can push the latch 
plate
back.  This part of my design is not working right - so I just pull the
release cord when the bucket is lowered and release the cord to secure the
bucket.

You will notice the two small brackets attached to the front of the frame.
That is where I put the high strength bolt with a sleeve for the lift 
strap.
My first bracket (lower holes in the photo) was too far away from the
strap - so I added more angle iron to raise the mount to the necessary
height.  Not the best welding - but I was in a hurry to try the bucket :)

I finished the bucket between Christmas and New Years and applied the 
bucket
to the task of moving dirt from the street to the backyard.  My mounting
holes for the bolt to attach to the lift strap are not level, so the strap
wanders to the right bracket and the right edge began to get chewed up on
the bolt.  I need to weld a big washer to each end of the sleeve - to act
like a spool to protect the belt, and widen the left hole so the bolt is
level under tension.  I also noticed that the time to lower and raise the
bucket with the strap looped back to the lift frame is a bit long if you 
are
in a hurry - it was near dark :)

The pile of dirt I was trying to move had been there a year, so it was
difficult to get much of a bite to lift.  Also lifting a bucket over filled
with dirt is a chore for the lift.  So I began to get out of the tractor
seat and use a shovel to fill the bucket.  Then I found that I could leave
the frame raised, drop the load, then just get out and relatch the bucket.
This turned the bucket / tractor into a power wheelbarrow.

I had low spots in the backyard, so dumping the bucket over the low spots
was quite easy without getting the tractor stuck in mud.  It would not have
been that easy with a wheelbarrow.

I may have overdesigned the frame - and made it too heavy.  Next time I'd 
be
tempted to just use angle iron and not make solid tubes for the frame.  I
think 1/8" steel is the right choice for the bucket, though.

I am happy with the result - it certainly made 'hauling dirt' a lot of fun!
I also included a picture of the sears leaf sweeper attached to the quick
connect hitch on the back of my tractor.  Thanks Shaun for the "Oz Bucket"
project!  I sense more ET welding projects in the future.

Monty McGraw
Spring Texas
GE I-5
two project ET tractors - an I-5 and an E-20


I've included Shaun's construction emails below:

"The first bucket I made was too big and although the front lift on double
purchase had no problems lifting the load, the front weight was too heavy
for the king pins which bent after going over some bumpy ground.

In use, you can dig with this bucket or drive it into a mound of dirt and
operate the lift to tilt it backwards. To tip, you release the latch. When
you lower the bucket to the ground, the latch clicks shut again.

In the meantime, some other info'. The bucket size is 32"wide, 14" high and
12" deep. The frame fits on to the front implement bracket just like the
dozer blade. The angle of the frame is arranged to allow the bottom of the
bucket to be flat on the ground in the lowered position. The bucket swivels
on brackets welded to the bottom of the frame. The  frame has forked ends 
to
fit the tractor mounting and is 23" long from forks to bucket. The spring
loaded latch is pretty simple and easy to release but is better described
with a sketch and a picture.  I am quite certain that you guys/gals will
come up with some great improvements.  Out here I have tended to relax into
the  laid back style of "if it ain't broke then don't fix it"!!

A warning on the front bucket - do not carry more that about 250 pounds
unless you are certain that you have either a cast front axle (Pre mid 
1972)
or the fabricated axle fitted with case hardened spindles. I have sent 
Larry
a diagram to explain this, but in the fabricated axle the spindle is held
between separate top and bottom bearings. With too much load on the front
tires the spindle will bend inside the axle and it is one hell of a job to
get it out!!  This problem is covered in an ET Product Service Bulletin 0f
April 7, 1972 - I will send Larry a copy.

You know when you have bent spindles, the steering goes stiff and grease
does not help."