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(ET) RE: Installing Landis controller in an Elec-Trak E-20



Well then, something must be wrong. Here are the conditions I have observed
over the past few days, since I installed the Landis controller:

LED remains on
Controller reference voltage is 38.0VDC
Solid state relay voltage is 120VAC
"Fuel level" is on full, verging on charge
Charger remains silent

All voltage measurements were taken with a Sperry digital multimeter (model
DM-350A, with a 3.5 digit display -- link below). The reference voltage
wires are connected to the small accessory receptacle, as Jeremy suggested
for the E20. The relay is connected to the wires that used to go to the
rotary timer switch (the two large ones, not the two small ones).

It is possible that the charger has run or that the LED turned off while I
was not around. I have only checked it about six times in the last two 
days.
The fact that the battery pack is exactly at the setpoint makes me suspect
that the device is working, regardless of what the LED says.

May I suggest a small design improvement? How about a green LED in addition
to the red one? The green LED would be on when the battery pack is above he
setpoint voltage, and off otherwise. The red would do the reverse. That 
way,
it would be easier and more intuitive to tell what the controller was 
doing.

I suppose the true test will be to mow my yard, so that the batteries need
charging again. Then I should definitely hear the charger come on as soon 
as
I plug it back in.

It is possible that I damaged the controller on my first attempt at
installing it. However, now I am quite sure it is installed correctly. If 
it
in fact is not working properly, what should I do next? As usual, I
sincerely appreciate all your help and guidance.

--greg

P.S. I am sending a copy of this message to the Elec-Trak mailing list, in
case anyone else on it has experience with the Landis controller in an E20
tractor.

AW Sperry Digital Multimeter DM-350A
http://www.awsperry.com/awsperry2/awsperry/db_search2.cgi?name=DM-350A&item=
dm-350a

Gregory Wilcox
31 Overlook Drive
Candler, NC 28715-9260
(828) 665-7531
(775) 255-1617 (fax)
Email address: gwilcox buncombe main nc us
Personal home page: http://buncombe.main.nc.us/~gwilcox/
Greg's Grains: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/gregs_grains/
Blue Ridge Bicycle Club: http://www.blueridgebicycleclub.org/
UUs for the Ethical Treatment of Animals: http://www.uua.org/ufeta/
Mass Extinction Underway: http://www.well.com/user/davidu/extinction.html

"If present trends continue, the result will be irreversible impoverishment
of species. At the current rate, we will lose half the plant and animal
species on Earth by the end of the century." -- E.O. Wilson, Salon 
Magazine,
January 14, 2002

-----Original Message-----
From: harry landis [mailto:hlandis hotmail com]
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2003 5:54 PM
To: gwilcox buncombe main nc us; Jeremy gagliardi com
Subject: RE: Installing Landis controller in an Elec-Trak E-20


I don't think it is useful to put the controller in parallel with the stock
timer, but if the timer works OK, it probably won't hurt. If the timer gets
stuck on, it could overcharge the batteries.
The LED should be red only if the charger is not plugged in, or if the
batteries are really low. If it is red, and plugged in, the charger should
be running and making noise. If it is not, something is wrong.

Harry


From: "Gregory Wilcox" <gwilcox buncombe main nc us>
To: <Jeremy gagliardi com>
CC: "Harry Landis" <hlandis hotmail com>
Subject: RE: Installing Landis controller in an Elec-Trak E-20
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 17:39:05 -0400

Harry and Jeremy,
        I have permanently installed the Landis controller in my Elec-Trak 
E20. It
seems to be working fine, as the red LED is on and the charge indicator is
on full. I left the setpoint at 38V.
        The charge indicator does not go into the "charge" zone, but I 
think I
understand why. With the stock timer, the current is applied continuously,
and the battery pack voltage can increase by several volts. (I have seen it
as high as 42V.) The Landis controller, on the other hand, applies current
periodically, and only for five minutes at a time. So the pack gets fully
charged, but the voltage never gets a chance to go much higher than the
setpoint.
        One more question, and a suggestion: in Jeremy's first message to 
me, he
wrote that he wired the Landis controller in parallel with the stock timer
(excerpt below). Harry, is this necessary?
        I mounted the controller on top of the plate that holds the timer
potentiometer. (I used one of the existing holes, and drilled a second 
one.)
This is contrary to the advice in the instructions regarding heat
dissipation, but I failed to notice that part until just now. I think I 
will
remount it yet again.
        In any case, the controller faces up, so I can see the LED. It is 
nice to
be able to watch the LED and know that the device is working. If I remount
the controller, I will still do so in a way that leaves the LED visible.
        There is a problem with this orientation, however. The solid state 
relay
terminals carry live 120V AC (house) current. When it faces up, these
terminals are exposed. There is a major shock hazard from touching the
device while it is in operation. Doing so could cause serious injury or
death. I would like to build an enclosure for it, with a hole for the LED.
Mr. Landis, may I humbly suggest that this could be easier done at the
"factory"? I would gladly have paid a few dollars more for the peace of
mind; I am sure others would too.
        As always, thank you both very much for your help with my 
questions.
--greg
______________________________________________________

Subject: Re: (ET) Installing Landis controller on E20
    Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 11:01:23 -0400 (EDT)
    From: Jeremy Gagliardi com
      To: elec-trak cosmos5 phy tufts edu

Although many say it is a replacement for the timer switch, I actually
hooked mine in parallel with the timer switch, so either device can 
activate
the charger.  Once a year after its winter hibernation, I like to run the
timer switch for a long charge to make sure all cells are fully charged.
I'm no expert, and it may not be necessary,
but that's what I do.