RE: (ET) elec-trak not running

[Christopher Meier <Christopher Meier cwix com>]

Does the seat switch work properly?

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-elec-trak cosmos5 phy tufts edu
[mailto:owner-elec-trak cosmos5 phy tufts edu]On Behalf Of David Roden
Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 1999 9:56 AM
To: elec-trak cosmos5 phy tufts edu
Subject: Re: (ET) elec-trak not running



> I tried to start it today to change over to the mower deck 
> and IT WONT MOVE!!
> 
> The snow blower runs, the deck runs, the tiller even runs,
> BUT the darn drive motor wont run.
> 

I am assuming you have tried all forward and reverse speeds and none of
them works.

The ID of your tractor -- if you have a clutch pedal, you have an E8 or
E10 (at least my manual says they have clutches).  The E8 came from the
factory with three 12v batteries, but some owners have switched them to
the usual six 6v batteries.  The E8 and E10 machines always have belly
mowers.  The E15 and E20 always have front-mounted mowers.  The E12 can
have either, depending on what model it is.  E12s usually have manual
front lifts.

Also, I think only the E12, E15, and E20 had ammeters ("power use" 
meters) on the instrument panel.

If you have a speed lever with 3 forward speeds but no clutch, it's an
E12.  If 7 forward, E15.  A pedal for speeds and 8 forward speeds, E20. 
This applies to the earlier GE machines.  I don't know about the Wheel
Horse or later GEs, like the E12S and E14S.

Hmmm, you have a tiller, so it sounds like you have an E12, E15 or E20, 
or
maybe one of the later large-frame models (14/16/whatever).

Once you figure out what model you have, you should probably get the
manual for it -- it has great flowchart diagrams to walk you through
troubleshooting problems like this.  But in the absence of that ...

When you try to run it, do you hear the contactors click, or are they
silent?  If they are silent it is a control problem.  Could be dirty
contacts on the speed control, or an blown fuse, or (likely) a 
dirty fuse.
 Pull the fuses up and push them back in.  Look at them.  If need be,
clean the clips and the fuse ends with steel wool.

On my tractor the brake switch has been troublesome.  Until I cleaned up
and squeezed the faston connectors to it, they often either fell off or
did not conduct; this immobilized the tractor.  Crawl under and 
make sure
they're connected.  If they are, twist and wiggle them a bit.

You did release the brake, right?  (Sorry, I know it sounds 
obvious, but I
frequently forget to release it, and it usually takes me a few 
minutes to
realize what I've forgotten.)

Now, if the contactors do click when you try -- does the ammeter ("power
use" meter) move up, or does it stay at zero?  (If you don't have such a
meter, turn on the lights and see if they dim down when you try.)  If it
goes way up, the motor may be somehow stalled or jammed.   Look for
debris, a big stick or something, stuck in the belt (?).  Crawl 
under and
try to rotate the motor pulley.  You should be able to move it by hand
with the transaxle in neutral.

Another thing that could cause high ammeter readings but no motor action
is a disconnected or burnt-out field (if it's not a PM motor).  Look for
two small wires coming out of the motor in addition to the large ones. 
These are the field connections.  If you have only two large 
wires and no
small ones on your motor, it is a PM (permanent magnet) type, with no
field.  If you do have field wires, make sure they are properly 
connected.
 Also check the field weakening relay behind the instrument 
panel (E15 and
E20 only).  It should click when you go into speed 3 or 4 (I forget
which).

If the contactors click but there is no current reading on the ammeter,
either the motor is dead or there is (most likely) a loose or corroded
connection.  Also, there is an overload breaker on the motor.  Try
resetting it.

I'm sure I've forgotten something, or maybe tangled something up, so if
anybody thinks of more ideas, please post them.  Hope this helps.  Good
luck to you.


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