Folks -

Thank you all for your support and advice on this matter. The tractor is now running very very well, thanks to Harold Zimmerman.

I got in touch with Harold to inquire about some new contactors. He helped me determine that the problem was not my contactors at all, but was actually a missing thermal resistor. It seems the former owner removed and discarded the charger cover, as well as the attached thermal resistor.

The trouble shooting step that Harold offered was to put the tractor in gear, put the throttle to forward, and press the power pulse button. It fired right up, and I drove around a bit. Very exciting, but short lived. That the tractor operated like this proved that my contactors and relays were not faulty.

Harold was able to ship me the missing cover and thermal resistor very quickly and affordably, plus a few other parts that were missing or damaged.

I replaced all 6 batteries with new Trojans, and have been greatly enjoying using the tractor for various towing around the property.

Thanks again for all your help, folks!

On Sun, Aug 8, 2021 at 11:38 AM Chris Swasey <cswasey@gmail.com> wrote:
Hey Folks -

Thanks to your links and good advice I believe I have a big step forward.

I was able to do better testing, and have found voltage everywhere I expect. I load tested the batteries, and while they're weak I am surprised they won't at least TRY to turn the motor. 

I have voltage at the motor in forward and reverse. I tried bridging the thermal breaker to no effect.

One thing on my mind - the Forward and Reverse contactors are reading some strange and unstable voltage numbers. I have read between 4-30 volts, and the multimeter is showing a decline or increase of a hundredth of a volt per second, roughly. This makes me wonder if there is a capacitor in the motor itself that isn't doing its job?

I have reached out to free range electric and clean power supply about new contactors, as they seem affordable and like a good next step for replacement.

Thanks for any insight!






On Fri, Aug 6, 2021 at 9:40 AM JEFFREY ANTONUCCI <jlantonucci@comcast.net> wrote:
Hi Chris,
 
I have an EGT-150.  Whenever I get a tractor I typically replace the relays in the dash, the fuse block and any contactors that are suspect.  I've had some with your symptoms - they click but do not transmit the high current required to drive the motor.  I took one apart once - a copper disc is supposed to contact two D shape posts.  After years of use the disc and the posts get pitted and they can make contact and transmit a voltage but not a high current.
 
New contactors, relays and fuse blocks are still available from Clean Power Supply or the Electric Tractor Store.
 
Use you multi meter to trace the voltages around.  Remember the chassis is not grounded on these tractors for safety reasons. 
 
I've done Electronic controllers with Alltrax and they were awesome but the EGT machines actually don't really need them.  They were the ultimate evolution of these machines and have simplified electrics and are dead reliable. 
 
I'm sure Jim Coate from the Electric Tractor store can give you instructions if you ask him.  Also try: http://www.elec-trak.com
 
Jeff
On 08/04/2021 10:24 PM Chris Swasey <cswasey@gmail.com> wrote:
 
 
Howdy folks -
 
I am the new owner of an EGT-150 with a mid mount mowing deck and a snow thrower. I am so excited to be working on this machine!
 
I ended up with it, because I told a family member I would be exploring converting a john deere mower to run on electricity. He stumbled across this mower, and delivered it to me free of charge.
 
According to the former owner, it ran and ran well until it recently stopped charging.
 
I found one battery was at 2v, and have replaced it. 6 batteries are now reading 6.2-6.3 volts. I have not load tested.
 
Currently I can run the mower deck, but I can not get any propulsion. The wiring, contactors, relays, seem to be all factory. When I put the throttle into Forward, I hear a contactor click. When I pull it back to reverse, another click. Neither results in the tires spinning. 
 
So here are some questions:
 
  1. Where are the cards on this tractor?! I can't find a circuit board with capacitors on it. I feel stupid.
  2. How would I most easily verify that the motor is getting the volts it needs to kick on? I can't seem to read anything "back there" with my multi-meter, but I am hesitant to start ripping wiring apart until I've confirmed that the contactors are doing what they should be doing.
  3. I have ordered the electronic controller upgrade kit from Free Range Electric. Does anyone have a link to a good guide to putting that upgrade together? I am sure I can figure it out, after a fashion, but I'm a carpenter by trade, and I tend to take the long way around electrical issues.
Thank you!
 
 
 
--
Any reviewer who expresses rage and loathing for a novel is preposterous. He or she is like a person who has put on full armor and attacked a hot fudge sundae.

Kurt Vonnegut (1922-2007)
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--
Any reviewer who expresses rage and loathing for a novel is preposterous. He or she is like a person who has put on full armor and attacked a hot fudge sundae.

Kurt Vonnegut (1922-2007)


--
Any reviewer who expresses rage and loathing for a novel is preposterous. He or she is like a person who has put on full armor and attacked a hot fudge sundae.

Kurt Vonnegut (1922-2007)